Photo Tips

I produce my pet portraits from photos, and the quality of the photo is fundamental to the quality of the pet portrait that I can produce.  Here are a few tips to help you get the best result.

General

• Photos taken in daylight give a purer representation of coat colour, eye colour and reduce any misleading shadows.  This is particularly true of black animals.
• The sharper the photo and the plainer the background the better.
• Don't get in too close because you may get a 'fish-eye lens' effect.
• Try to take the photo from the animal's level so he is looking at you rather than up at you.
• Think about your animal's appearance.  If he is a stately old gentleman and you provide a photo from when he was a year old, there will be a big difference.  How do you want to remember your friend?

Dogs

• For shorter-muzzled dogs, profiles generally don't work so well.  Try to provide a full or three-quarter face* view.
• For longer-muzzled dogs, profile, full or three-quarter face can all work equally well.

Cats

• Profiles generally don't work so well for cats; try to provide full or three-quarter face* view.

Horses

• Because of the long, narrow skull, full face doesn't always work so well; try to provide a profile or three-quarter face* view.

Other Animals

• As a general rule, for shorter-muzzled animals, profiles don't work too well.

*A three quarter face view is shown in the horse picture below.  As you can see, she is turning from the side to face you.

People

• The simple rule with photos for human portraits is that they must be as clear as possible with true lighting that does not distort colour or shadows.  A professional portrait such as a school photo is usually sufficient.

I will make every effort to provide you with a high-quality pet portrait from the photos provided.  If I feel I am just unable to work from the photos your provide, I will let you know, and where possible, may be able to arrange to come and take some of my own photos.